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Diary of a CEO · 2022-06-13 · 1h 24m

What No One Tells You About Success And Mental Health! - Building A $240M Dollar Empire!

Dermalogica founder Jane Wurwand on building a skincare empire, the cost of relentless work, and confronting buried trauma through therapy.

What No One Tells You About Success And Mental Health! - Building A $240M Dollar Empire!
The guest

Jane Wurwand — Scottish-born skin therapist and entrepreneur who co-founded the International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica with her husband Raymond, building it into a multi-hundred-million-dollar global skincare brand acquired by Unilever in 2015.

The gist

Jane Wurwand traces her path from a fatherless childhood in Edinburgh to emigrating to South Africa, then building two skincare businesses in Los Angeles from $14,000 of self-funding. She explains how building community among isolated skin therapists drove her success, alongside fierce attention to detail and a philosophy of decisiveness. She is candid about the personal costs: lost friendships, no work-life balance, and self-sabotaged relationships. A turning point came when a Santa Barbara mudslide destroyed her home, triggering insomnia and anxiety that finally led her to therapy and to unpacking decades of buried grief.

Big reveals

  • Jane's first marriage ended when her husband emptied her bank account and threw her cut-up clothes out a window; she vowed never to be that vulnerable again.
  • She admits the way she immigrated to the US was a 'slight loophole' using an inter-company transfer visa, since closed.
  • At a 1987 Glasgow industry conference her mic was switched off and she was asked to leave the stage after nine minutes for being too disruptive.
  • A massive boulder came through the master bedroom of their Santa Barbara house in a 2018 mudslide; they survived only because they had left for their daughter's birthday.
  • She went 41 nights with under four hours sleep before a psychiatrist told her she had an anxiety problem, not insomnia.
  • Her daughter Lucy, frightened by her phone-distracted mother, said she only wanted to give her a hug because she 'looked so cross' — the tipping point.
  • Answering the closing question, Jane rates her self-love a 10 out of 10 after years of therapy and support.

Things worth remembering

  • The International Dermal Institute trains over 100,000 skin therapists every year and remains the number one advanced training program in the industry.
  • The South African government offered assisted passage emigration for 40 pounds, which is how Jane left freezing England in 1977.
  • When she arrived in LA, salon owners preferred European-trained therapists because US training was only a few months versus several years in Europe.
  • California's state board license required only 600 hours (about four months) versus the two-to-three-year full-time training common in Europe.
  • Dermalogica was self-funded on $14,000 and remained highly profitable through to the 2015 Unilever acquisition.
  • Dermalogica deliberately avoided jars because bathroom airborne E. coli contaminates open cream containers.
  • The company made roughly a million dollars in its first year and grew to around 1,400 employees.
  • Jane's decision-making rule is to act once you have 70% of the information, never waiting for 100%.
  • Her hiring philosophy: +10 points for a right decision, 0 for a wrong one, but -10 for making no decision at all.

Recommended in this episode

Books, products and media the guest or host genuinely endorsed here — with the buy link.

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Guest’s ownBook

Skin in the Game

Jane Wurwand

“that's a quote taken from your book skin in the game yeah raymond that's raymond's phrase” — Steven Bartlett 00:43:44
Find it on Amazon
Guest’s ownProduct

Dermalogica

Jane Wurwand

“we launched dermalogica in january of 1986 and that business generates hundreds of millions of dollars a year” — guest 00:46:20
Find it on Amazon